Monday 25 July 2011

Motorsport and frame welding

Ideally the car will be used for driving on the road, but a great passion of mine is to be able to go racing. The idea behind the WRX which went so horribly pear shaped, was to get it on the track and join in for some hillclimbing and supersprints. I've got queries about putting a rollcage on the car. It would be an intelligent move to incorperate a roll cage when i am building the frame, before the bodywork is put on.

So looking at putting a half cage in. According to the CAMS Manual of Motorsport, a half cage is the minimum required for open wheeler in "Speed" events like supersprints and hillclimbs. It will need to be made of chromoly, circular section dold drawn tube. The main hoop needs to be 44.45mm outside diameter and 2.5mm wall thickness. All other components will need to be 38mm outside diameter and 2.5mm wall thickness. The supporting pads of the cage will be welded to the main chassis and the rear support bars will be welded to an extra rear structure which will need to be designed into the chassis as it is being built. The pads themselves have a specification to comply with. Each mounting foot of the front, main and lateral roll bars must include a reinforcement plate, of a thickness of at least 3mm which must not be less than that of the tube onto which it is welded. Each mounting foot must be attached by at least three bolts on a steel reinforcement plate at least 3mm thick and of at least 12,000mm2 area which is welded to the bodyshell. Examples are shown in drawings 253-18 to 253-24. (For drawings 253-18 and 253-20, the reinforcement plate does not necessarily have to be welded to the bodyshell.)

Having a chat to a fella from work, i have been advised it would be advisable to tack weld the frame and cage using MIG but with 0.9 309 stainless steel wire. This will help with the final welding of the frame and the cage, as i would like to get the frame TIG welded by a ticketed structural welder.

Update on build board and frame

I was going through the old posts and thought i'd do an update on what is happning with the frame and build board. Well the board currently looks like this -

and to add a note of proudness - that's my Dad's 1918 Model T Ford under the cover. He's done the most amazing job. Rebuilt it from ground up apart from the main body. It was originally a utility (pick up) which i rebuilt the tray as my HSC major work. He decided to go with the tourer a few years after this, the upholstery he did himself, and learned it all from scratch. I'm very impressed!

Back to the board. I found some white house paint left over from somewhere, and gave it a few coats so that the lines to be marked on it stick out a bit better. I will be drilling and mounting small blocks of timber on the board on either side of each metal tube to keep the chassis from twisting as it is welded, and prevent it from being bumped inadvertantly out of alignment.

Update on frame - fingers crossed the new plans from Voodou motorsport in the UK will be relesaed in the next week. I'm dead keen to get everything underway this coming weeekend.

Cost so far

I actually havent done too much in up till now in regards to how much i've actually spent. So here goes.

$200 - front steering knuckles (Bought these about 2 years ago)
$95 - build table materials
$98 - 25 x 25 RHS to do the frame (may need to buy some more)
$1500 - MX5, a whole car!!
$50 - The Haynes Roadster book.

So pretty much everything apart from the donor car has been fairly low in cost. I'm planning on keeping costs down, but theres things i'm going to need to buy to make it easier to build and get running. Hopefully these will come when i need them and not right now. I'm bored being away for work and i keep being tempted to go to eBay and buy shit.

I Just want to get home and start marking out the table, and cutting the first few pieces of the frame. Once the base of the frame is tacked together, and it becomes a 3D frame, then i'll be bloody excited!!

Pedal Boxes

I was tossig up the idea on building the pedal box myself. Designing the pedals by using a CAD program and getting it all cut out by laser cutter of waterjet cutting. With research i've found a few options from the UK, again the evil bay has struck again.

Not too much different between the two, but one is a bit more sturdy than the other. Difference in price is only about $20 AUD. Both have the asdjustable bias bar which is handy, and the bottom one, which is looking to be the option comes with the two brake mater cylinders. What's handy about both of these is that being floor mounted, they have a 25 x 25mm cut out at the base so it can be easily mounted to a space frame.

Model Caterham

One of the books i've bought over the years had the author building a 1/12 scale model of a Lotus 7. Ive thought this would be a fantastic idea. Then i went looking for them on evil bay. They start at $350 and keep on going. Bloody hell, thats almost half the cost of my donor MX5 or pretty much the price of all the metal for the car.

That idea is kaput!! No chance, i actually want a real one to drive, not to look at and think how pretty it is.





Exhausts

I was thinking about the exhaust and how i could go about making it. I thought that it would work if i could make an all in one unit so have the cat and the muffler in the one cannister. One option would be to find a motorbike exhaust and then weld on the cat to the front of it. Then wrap a perforated heatshield around to make it tidier.
Roughly what id like to have as the heat shield. But with larger holes, and more of a mesh type arrangement. Should keep everything cooler too with more ventilation.

This is an actual Caterham exhaust. It's combined with a cat at the front and the muffler at the rear.

Here's an idea from a guy on the Oz-Clubbies forum. Showing a Yamaha R1 titanium/carbon exhaust. This one has been gutted to just be a hot dog style muffler.

So the theory behind extractors is that they all have to be the same length runner into the collector to ensure that the pulses of exhaust gas helps scavenge the next pulse. So each pulse (as its each cylinder creates a small amount of exhaust per each exhaust cycle) is a high pressure charge. At the beginning and end of this charge is actually a low pressure. This low pressure is what helps the scavenging effect of the exhaust. So each runner must be tuned to ensure that a pulse of exhaust is scavenged by the one in front. I'm not very good at this sort of fabrication, so i may have to send the car out once the engine is mounted correctly in the frame and get someone to do it.

Friday 22 July 2011

ADR 83/00 - External Noise

I can get this tested in a place in Newcastle. Not sure how loud it will be, but i should be able to change the exhaust design as i need to.

ADR 79/02 - Emission Control for Light Vehicles

Possibly one of the most difficult to try and explain my way around. So to keep things simple, I will be using the B6 engine out of the MX5. I will use all the original emission control devices from the donor car and have it all set up like it should be. The exhaust will have a catalytic converter in it. So everything will be as it should be.

Then i will need to try and get the car past an IM240 emissions test. The NSW RTA holds IM240 testing days for free to get your car checked. I will need to get the car tuned properly and then tested. Fingers crossed the car will pass with a mild tune. If not then i will have to take a ECU guru with me and attempt to change things on the fly.

ADR 62 - 78

ADR 62 - Mechanical Connections between Vehicles - Not applicable to my car
ADR 63 - Trailers Designed for Use in Road Trains - Not applicable to my car
ADR 64 - Heavy Goods Vehicles Designed for Use in Road Trains & B-Doubles - Not applicable to my car
ADR 65 - Maximum Road Speed Limiting for Heavy Goods Vehicles and Heavy Omnibuses - Not applicable to my car
ADR 66 - Seat Strength, Seat Anchorage Strength and Padding in Omnibuses - Not applicable to my car
ADR 67 - Installation of Lighting and Light-Signalling Devices on Three-Wheeled Vehicles - Not applicable to my car
ADR 68 - Occupant Protection in Buses - Not applicable to my car
ADR 69 - Full Frontal Impact Occupant Protection - Not applicable to my car
ADR 70 - Exhaust Emission Control for Diesel Engined Vehicles - Not applicable to my car
ADR 71 Temporary Use Spare Tyres - Not applicable to my car
ADR 72 - Dynamic Side Impact Occupant Protection - Not applicable to my car
ADR 73 - Offset Frontal Impact Occupant Protection - Not applicable to my car
ADR 74 - Side Marker Lamps - deals with production requirements for the lights themselves
ADR 75 - Headlamp Cleaners - Not applicable to my car
ADR 76 - Daytime Running Lamps- deals with production requirements for the lights themselves
ADR 77 - Gas Discharge Headlamps- deals with production requirements for the lights themselves
ADR 78 - Gas Discharge Light Sources- deals with production requirements for the lights themselves

ADR 60/00 - Centre High Mounted Stop Lamp

I intend on having a center high mounted stop light any way. But here is an ADR in regards to having one fitted. I was intending on having a half roll cage fitted, and this wouold be attatched somehow underneath the cross bar.

ADR 44 - 59. All responded to via other ADR's or not applicable

ADR 44 - Specific Purpose Vehicle Requirements
ADR 45 - Lighting & Light-signalling Devices not covered by ECE Regulations
ADR 46 - Headlamps
ADR 47 - Retroreflectors
ADR 48 - Devices for Illumination of Rear Registration Plates
ADR 49 - Front and Rear Position (Side) Lamps, Stop Lamps and End-outline Marker Lamps
ADR 50 - Front Fog Lamps
ADR 51 - Filament Lamps
ADR 52 - Rear Fog Lamps
ADR 53 - Front and Rear Position Lamps, Stop Lamps, Direction Indicators & Rear Registration Plate Lamps for L-Group Vehicles
ADR 54 - Headlamps for Mopeds
ADR 55 - Headlamps for Motor Cycles
ADR 56 - Moped Noise
ADR 57 - Special Requirements for L-Group Vehicles
ADR 58 - Requirements for Omnibuses Designed for Hire and Reward
ADR 59 - Standards for Omnibus Rollover Strength

ADR 43/04 - Vehicle Configuration & Dimensions

OK, so the turnin circle cannot exceed 25 meters. That wont be a problem, i'll just do a burnout and spin it on a dime :)) of yeah!!

Length must not exceed 12.5 meters, rear overhang must not exceed 60% of the wheelbase. Height not to exceed 4.3 meters. Ground clearance must be greater than 100mm. Width must not be greater than 2500mm.

Well, i think everything is in spec with a Clubman. If anyone sees a clubman which is 4.3 meters high, 2.5 meters wide and 12.5 meters long, then someone has doone something terribly wrong

My only real worry will be to ensure that the ground clearance will be more than the 100mm specified.

ADR 42/04 - General Safety Requirements

There are many clauses, and to help out the engineers paperwork has outlined the clauses pertinent to what i will be requiring.

7 - Controls.
  • cant be on the left but can be in the center.
  • Steering cant be fly by wire.
9 - Electrical Wiring
  • must be supported at 600mm intervals
  • insulated at the joints
  • protected from heat, moving parts and abrasion
10 - Exhaust outlets
  • must be on the right or to the rear
  • to the right mus be pointing down 15 - 20 degrees.
  • if the vehicle is enclosed, then the exhaust outlet is to be 40mm beyond the furthest outboard or rearmost joint in the floorpan. So mine is open, which means i can still have the side exiting exhaust!! Woohoo!!
12 - Field of view
  • just have to make sure that the positioing of lights etc will not obscure the view over the wheel.

14 - Mudguards
  • Front
  • from at least above the center of the wheel or forward of the center of the wheel
  • to at least as low as the center of the wheel at the rear
  • Rear
  • from at least above the front of the tyre at axle height
  • to at least at 45 degrees above the horizontal line through the axle center at the rear
  • Front and rear must be at least as wide as the tyre selection
15 - Brake Tubing and brake hose
  • All brake hardlines will use double flare fittings. Tube will conform with SAE.
  • Will be fitted to the vehicle in such a way that i will be prevented from being chafed or kinked.
  • Flexible brake hoses will be fitted and will be appropriately marked with either SAE J1410, FMVSS 106 or ADR 7/00.
16 - Reverse gear
  • Well the car will have one
  • and the reversing light as per ADR 13/00
19 - Windows (Not applicable)

20 - Warning devices - Audible
  • I'm going to have to have a horn. So i'll use the one off the MX5.
25 - Tyre and Rim selection
  • i'll originally be using the wheels and tyre that come off the MX5.
  • After that i will be using the same size wheels and profile tyres but aftermarket.
  • I also need to make up a tyre placard to put on the vehicle somewhere.

ADR 22 - 41

ADR 22/00 - Head restraints. I will be using the MX5 seats which are already complied, so i wont be too worried about this. If i use race seats, whic i would like to use eventually, they too will be ADR approved.

ADR 23/02 - Passenger Car Tyres. I'll be using Australian delivered car tyres which will pass these ADR's

ADR 24 - Tyre & Rim Selection - no longer used
ADR 25 - Anti-Theft Lock - not applicable to my car
ADR 28 - External Noise of Motor Vehicles - replaced by ADR 83/00
ADR 29 - Side Door Strength - Not applicable to my car
ADR 30 - Smoke Emission Control for Diesel Vehicles - Not applicable to my car
ADR 31 - Brake Systems for Passenger Cars - no longer used
ADR 32 - NOT USED
ADR 33 - Brake Systems for Motorcycles and Mopeds -  Not applicable to my car
ADR 34 - Child Restraint Anchorages and Child Restraint Anchor fittings -  Not applicable to my car
ADR 35 - Commercial Vehicle Brake Systems - Not applicable to my car
ADR 36 - Exhaust Emission Control for Heavy Duty Vehicles - Not applicable to my car
ADR 37 - Emission Control for Light Vehicles - replaced by ADR 79/00
ADR 38 - Trailer Brake Systems - Not applicable to my car
ADR 39 - External Noise of Motor Cycles - Not applicable to my car
ADR 40 - NOT USED
ADR 41 - Mandatory Operation on Unleaded Petrol - no longer used

ADR 21/00 - Instrument Panel

The function of this Australian Design Rule is to specify requirements for the instrument panel to reduce its injury potential to occupants on impact.the dash board will be flat, and the scuttle over the top of the dash will be trimmed and padded to protect the occupants. No sharp angles or edges will be present and all metal edges will have protrective trim.

ADR 19 & 20

Both of these are not applicable or are no longer used.

Thursday 21 July 2011

ADR 18/03 - Instrumentation

The function of this Australian Design Rule is to specify requirements for the provision of speedometers.

It must have a speedo (to tell how awesomely fast i'm going). Must be positioned in the drivers direct field of view. Marked in kph and graduated in 1, 2, 5 or 10 km/hr intervals numbered at least every 20km/hr. So if i'm driving at an indicated 80km/hr i should be between 68 and 80 km/hr. So nothging over and heaps under. Could that be why old people are so slow on the road?

ADR's 15 - 17

ADR 15 - Demisting of Windscreen - no windscreen, so not applicable

ADR 16 - Windscreen Wipers and Washers - again no windscreen

ADR 17 - Fuel System - This standard ceased to have effect for new vehicles as from 2 August 2005

Another three down in 2 minutes, a bit easier typing than ADR 13 for the lights.

ADR 14/02 - Rear Vision Mirrors

Will be required to fit two side mirrors. The center mirror will be impracticle as there is no windscreen and the mounting for mirror will impede vision from drivers seating position. More than likely i will be using mirrors from a motorcycle as they are cheap to buy from ebay and already have the correct mounting stalks to make them comply with the ADR. The size of the mirrors will  be at least 70mm high and 130mm wide. I will not be using convex mirrors. I'm not a fan of these in the first place and im sure in a clubman they wont really be needed.

ADR 13/00 - Installation of Lighting and Light-signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles

Lighting requires a fairly large response, but basically every light needs to be ADR complied and approved. The current plan is to buy brand new HELLA approved lights, excluding the indicators which i will be using motorcycle indicator stalks.

Main beam headlamp - reference for this is ADR 46/00. This is a mandatory requirement. It must be a white light, a minimum of 2 lights, maximum of 4 required at the front of the vehicle. There is no width or height specified, but must be symmetrical about the centerline of the vehicle. A BLUE indictor must be installed on the dash.

Dipped headlight - is also mandatory. It must be a white light and two only. Positioning requires that it be less than 400mm from the extremity of the vehicle and the inner edges more than 600mm apart.The height must be between 500mm and 1200mm. Again must be symetrical to the centerlkine of the vehicle.

Reversing Lamp - Mandatory, one or two lamps white light. No width specified, but positioning must be rear of vehicle between 250mm and 1200mm in height. Must only work when iginition is on and gear is in reverse.

Front indicator - two required and amber in colour. Must be greater than 40mm from outside edge of vehicle and less than 400mm from extremity of vehicle. They must me more than 600mm apart. Height from 350mm and no more than 1500mm. The light must flash in phase with the repeaters on the same side with a flash rate of 90 cycles per minute +/- 30 cycles per minute. If an indicator fails, the remaining lamps must either, substantially increase in frequency, remain lit or extinguish. A green tell tale must be displayed on the dash.

Rear Indicator - amber in colour and same requirements for flashing, failure state and tell tale. Positioning needs to be less than 400mm from extremity of vehicle, greater than 600mm apart and height between 350mm and 1500mm.

Side repeater indicator - amber in colour. 400mm from extremity of vehicle. Height must be between 350mm and 1500mm. Must be less than 1800mm from front of vehicle. Light must be visible from a 65 degree angle from behind and to side of vehicle

Hazard warning - must be linked to all indicators and switched seperately from indicators. The light must flash in phase with the repeaters on the same side with a flash rate of 90 cycles per minute +/- 30 cycles per minute. If an indicator fails, the remaining lamps must either, substantially increase in frequency, remain lit or extinguish. A seperate red tell tale must be displayed on the dash.

Stop lamp - two standard positioned lamps plus one center high mounted stop lamp. 400mm from extremity of vehicle. Height must be between 350mm and 1500mm at the rear of the vehicle.

Rear registration plate lamp - switched with parking lasmps and must illuminate the rear number plate sufficiently

Front position lamp (parking lights) - white. Positioning requires that it be less than 400mm from the extremity of the vehicle and the inner edges more than 600mm apart.The height must be between 500mm and 1200mm.

Rear position lamp (parking lamps) - red. Positioning requires that it be less than 400mm from the extremity of the vehicle and the inner edges more than 600mm apart.The height must be between 500mm and 1200mm.

Rear retro-reflector - rear of vehicle - red reflectors at rear of the vehicle. Less than 400mm from extremity of vehicle and between 350mm and 1500mm.

Centre high mounted stop lamp - red and centered on vehicle. 77mm below the bottom of the rear window (well for me this will be the roll bar.)

Back to the ADR list heres ADR 12/00 - Glare Reduction

The function of this Australian Design Rule is to minimise the glare from certain surfaces in the view of the driver.
/00 - This standard ceased to have effect for new vehicles as from 9 December 2003. So basically its not going to applicable to building a new Clubman.

Monday 11 July 2011

Wheels, paint colours and engine components

I'm getting ahead of myself, but cant help it. I was surfing around eBay and found these wheels, and thus i've found the paint scheme for the car when it finally gets finished

The MX5 i bought will be coming with a second block, crankshaft is buggered so it will need a few new components. eBay in the US has these goodies
$800 USD

$270 USD


So there are solutions to the issue of a stuffed motor. And with the exchange rate being good and staying that way for a bit, it's probably going to be a pretty good thing to rebuild the engine myself. Also will keep the trade skills up.

Sunday 10 July 2011

Engine rebuild, 2nd block

With the purchase of the MX5 comes a second block. Supposedly the crankshaft is buggered, but the rest is OK. I'll have to inspect it and see how basd things really are. From the US you can buy a new crankshaft for $270 USD and a set of Wiseco pistons and Eagle H Beam connection rods for $800 USD. The Crankshaft comes with bearings. A pretty cheap rebuild when it's all said and done.

Exhaust, and turbo

The exhaust for a naturally aspirated car like this is a complicated thing to build correctly. I'm not so sure i could do it justice, and if i was to build it myself, it could cause the engine to not perform how i want it to. I have been looking at the option to add a turbo to the B6 engine. It's actually not a bad idea really. The turbo manifold for the B6 engine is relatively small and does not protrude too far off the side of the engine. It would mean that i would have to stuff around with setting up the turbo, and rebuilding the motor to take a lower compression. I guess thats something i was wanting to do anyway, although increasing the compression if i was to go N/A. Not too sure at this stage. I have a friend i will see in the coming weeks who has a Mazda Familia. His engine is pumping out 300hp or so. So if anyone knows about the B6 donk, it would be him.

A quick look on ebay in the US has turned up the possibility of getting a turbo set up for $800 USD. Which would equate to $1,000 landed to my door. 

ADR 11/00 - Sun Visors

Ha ha!! My Clubman and i laugh at your ADR!! Not going to be needed as i dont have a windscreen, and therefore will be impracticable and be exempt. From the engineers notes. Fantastic, another thing to not have to worry about.

Prequalified components

The notes from the engineer are pretty handy to have. He writes every now and again "Hopefully the use of prequalified components can be negotiated." I'm thinking that for some parts - steering column (again) that this might be relevant.

ADR 10/02 - Steering column

Oh for possibly the hardest ADR to try and work my way around. According to the engineer i have recieved information from, unless you use the column from an actual car that has been made and complied in the year that i will be building (or will have it complianced) then it will not pass compliancing. What a stupid idea really. But will have to address this problem.

In the notes from the engineer, he states that there are two parts to this ADR. The requirements for when you hit the steering wheel in an impact, and the requirement for when the car hits a wall. He states "The use of a complying column requires duplication of the situation of the column in the donor vehicle as well as the crush characteristics of the donor vehicle. This will be impossible to determine by inspection.

I believe that i can use the MX5 column out of the donor vehicle, it's been complied before, and if i can get the angles right it should be able to be passed. Surely there could be a way around it.

Having read part of the ADR, again a seriously mind altering experience, it seems that everything has to do with determining the conformity of the column by testing in a crash test. Seeing as my vehicle is an ICV, it does not need to be crash tested to be complied. I would think if i could prove the column was out of a complied car, and i made every practicable step to make it safe, then i might get passed.

Point that i need to remember when installing and setting up the steering column
  - there has to be a distance from the back of the steering wheel to the dash - engineer has suggested 150mm

ADR 9

NOT USED!

ADR 8/01 - Safety Glazing Material

Luckily this will be an easy one as well. I dont intend on having a windscreen. Which also makes the fitment of wipers, demisters and sun visors all moot points!! Yay for making the car simple!! Gotta love minimalist design theories.

ADR 7 - Hydraulic Brake Hoses

NO LONGER. This standard ceased to have effect for new vehicles as from 9 December 2003, the requirements have been incorporated in ADR 42/.

Gee this was an easy one :))

ADR 6/00 - Indicator Lamps

Most of the lighting will actually come under the ADR 13/00. But indicator lamps basically give the direction i will want to be turning blah blah blah. These lamps must have the "E" markings on them as well.

Solution at the moment is for the front indicators i will use motorcycle indicators, and the rear will be incorperated in a Hella brand combination light, which will have the brakes, reverse and indicator all in one.

Build weekend set in stone

I'm going away for work yet again. So the amount of available weekends seems to be rapidly diminishing. So in three weeks time, i have planned to take a long weekend and start again on the chassis construction. Voodoo motorsports in the UK have totally redesigned the Haynes Roadster frame to accept the MX5 components. The plans will be available online very soon, so i will be downloading a set of these as soon as they go up.

Not too sure how it will go with the torsion and twist testing that is required for NSW and Australian standards, but when i build it i will see where i can put in some more bracing tubes to make it more rigid.

Friday 8 July 2011

MX 5 and frame

So this is roughly what the car looks like. A bit of imagination needed as its faded and a little tired. Surprisingly every panel is straight and there is no rust


The chassis for the build will be looking a bit like this, and i stole this from the Haynes Roadster forums. Noting it came from a guy there, if you read this, and like to know more, i can send you in the right direction


They have redesigned the frame to take all MX 5 components as opposed to Ford Sierra parts. The frame is practicly the same although modified so the steering geometry, and the rear suspension and diff mounts work well with the new components.I have asked the guys on the forum when the plans will be available for download, but seeing as tehy are in England, it will take a day to get back to me. Also, i have been in contact with Saturn Sportscars again to enquire about their modified plans for the Haynes Roadster.

Good things come to those who wait

So I've been looking around at second hand MX5's for a while now in the attempt to find a cheap one i can pull to pieces. I parked the car this morning at work and one of the other guys pulled up next to me in his MX5. As i always do when i see an MX5, i aksed him if he was wanting to sell it. And he said yes!! So obviously i was thinking that hed be wanting at least $4,000 for it.

But he said $1500 with the hard top, or $1000 with the old soft top he had for it. There is a brand new soft top too, but i said he should keep it and sell it himself. So in 3 weeks time, i'll be in possession of an MX5 to start stripping for parts. I can't wait!!!

I alos bought a laptop last night. So now i can post to the blog and to the Haynes Roadster forum more regularly. Not that i think many people will follow this blog though. But it's good to keep this up for my sanity of getting ideas onto paper and able to be shared.

Sunday 3 July 2011

ADR 5/05 - Anchorages for Seatbelts

The function of this Australian Design Rule is to specify requirements for belt anchorages so that they may be adequately secured to the vehicle structure or seat and will meet comfort requirements in use. So for seat belt anchorage points, this will have to be something determined with the help of the engineer, especially as how the engineer will have to be happy with the safety side of things. I downloaded the FIA regulations and according to them, the anchorages to be approved for racing must be 3mm steel plate welded to a supporting member of the chassis or suspension. I would think that if i followed the logic of the FIA, then i wouldn't be far from getting it right.

ADR 4/04 - Seatbelts

The function of this Australian Design Rule is to specify requirements for seatbelts to restrain vehicle occupants under impact conditions, facilitate fastening and correct adjustment, assist the driver to remain in his 'Seat' in an emergency situation and thus maintain control of the vehicle, and protect against ejection in an accident situation.  Seatbelts i will use will be brand new with all ADR markings. All belts will be compliant with AS2596. You can buy these from automotive parts suppliers. All anchorages will use high grade bolts and fittings.

ADR 3/03 - Seats and Seat Anchorages

This is a really complicated ADR when it all comes down to it. There are measurements need to work out the sitting position of a driver in an approved seat

I believe that this ADR is somewhat over complicated for what i need to determine. Having a read through it, while being incredibly boring, is basically all about how to determine that the seat itself would pass the requirements.

For the seat, i will be utilizing the seats out of the MX5, and also the original equipment manufacturers mounting rails. These are ADR approved already, if they are not, then everyone driving an MX5 better feel worried.

ADR 2/01 - Side Door Latches and Hinges

Seeing as i need to attempt to put an answer to all ADR's, I'll make notes as to why i don't need to conform to some of them. This ADR, for example will be N/A on the checklist. It wont have doors, and thus no latches or hinges.Also to note, as this car will be a NEW ICV built in 2011 (or 2012, or 2013) the ADR code is 2/01 (as opposed to 2/00) as this is the most recent amendment to the regulations.

ADR 1/00 - Reversing lamps

Well obviously the car will have reversing lamps. In accordance to the ADR, the lamps must operate if the ignition is on and the reverse gear is selected. The lamps must not be able to be switched manually. The lights themselves must have the Austrlaian Standard "E" mark. Not hard seeing as i will be using a standard gearbox with the reverse light switch still hooked up. Also a vehicle of category MA which mine will be, must have them to aid a driver to carry out reversing procedures at night and warn other drivers/pedestrians that the car is reversing. Well, no shit! Sometimes ADR's really point out the obvious

Saturday 2 July 2011

Build board up and running

Well finally the build board and table have made it to the new home. Board is now painted in white emulsion and ready to start remarking the outline of the chassis. I was thinking about making the frame bigger eg the McSorley +442, but have decided to keep the chassis and build true to the book. But using MX-5 running gear.

Which leads me onto my next tangent, donor vehicle and running gear. I bought NC MX-5 front uprights about 2 years ago and have decided to use these. My main issue with using these will be that the front steering geometry will need to be redesigned. A kit car company in the UK, Saturn Sports Cars, is currently developing their car to use the MX-5 front hubs etc. I have been emailing them since January in regards to possibly borrowing, or purchasing their steering geometry design.

Have been thinking also about choice of engine as well. Originally I was thinking of using an SR20, which is a 2.0ltr motor. The theory and design of these clubman vehicles is that they are lightweight with small, light and reasonably powered engines, which rev quite high. So the SR20 may be too big, both in physical size and power. People say you can't have too much power, but I think a car weighing about 500kgs with 200kw on tap could be a very difficult car to drive smoothly and consistently. So I'm back to looking into getting a whole cheap (even unregistered) MX-5 and using motor, gearbox, wiring loom, steering wheel and column, dash, differential, prop shaft, drive shafts, rear hubs and wheels. This means it would be a one stop shop to get the majority of the parts I will need to make the car go. At the end then I could happily give the body away to a wrecker of scrap metal man.

Ah the ideas and obsession continue. Sometimes it really does take over my whole train of thought.